May 30th, 2010 by cheapcar

A lot of people are cheated immediately after they have agreed to a new car offer. It is at this point in the deal when the salesperson or dealers try to get the last drop of blood out of you, by offering extras packages and additional warranties.

Your extras packages are generally things such as anti-corrosion applications, scotch guarding, and so on. It always appears to be a pretty simple investment, but it may surprise you at the high number of who get ripped-off on these. However, we are going to discuss the extended warranty ruse.

One of the sneakiest final-charge rip-off’s, would be the extended warranty, mainly for the reason that the terminology applied to this is really confusing. It’s not your factory warranty that came with the vehicle either, rather it is an extended warranty that only covers the dealer’s outlay for solving problems associated with, or causing, a break down in your new vehicle.

Extended warranties normally do handle just about any fixes that you may need during your initial insurance coverage, there is however, frequently a fair bit that is not explained, certainly not clearly. By way of example, your extended warranty is frequently only good for up to a particular number of miles, or perhaps term period (amount of time insurance protection is in force); or whichever occurs first.

The case may be that only specific kinds of difficulties are covered, so if the extended warranty won’t be going to handle every single portion of your vehicle – is there any reason why you would want it? Should you avoid the warranty extras when buying a new car? A resounding yes.

Indeed, some warranties really don’t cover the bigger complications, only those insignificant kinds, like bulb or fuse replacement. In the case of your car actually dying on you, you may be on your own. Conversely, there are those  extended warranties that don’t include coverage of incidentals like fuses, etc, rather, only for break-downs. If you do want extended warranty, obtain the one that covers the two kinds of circumstances.

Keep in mind that you will want a warranty that’s immediately effective. Additionally, it is essential to obtain a warranty from a reputable finance company, rather than the one you have never heard of before, as it may very well cease to exist in a relatively short time.

Don’t buy any extended warranty from the car-yard, rather, examine sites on LendingTree.com, etc, regarding an online extended warranty, as this gives you an appropriate amount of time to assess different policies, without pressure from sales-people.

Be on the look-out for the deductibles, this is your share that you must pay in the event of an accident, theft, etc. Deductibles vary, sometimes between states and you really do not need to get charged for something that you expected was already covered in the warranty.

These kinds of extras do a great deal more for the dealer than for you. So, basically, it’s a matter of paying attention to, or reading fully, about any extras on offer.

On the question of whether or not to avoid the warranty extras, when purchasing a new car, the answer is a resounding yes.

April 20th, 2010 by cheapcar

Car tires are a vital component regarding the overall safety of road use. Unfortunately many people afford them little credit in this regard, and tend to view tires as “just there”. The fact of the matter is that tires are your contact with the road. One of the most hazardous places you can be in, in your car, is in poor contact with the tarmac. Poor tire contact with the road, means that you have diminished input toward your ability to steer the vehicle.

This fact, highlights the danger you are in when you’re travelling at 60 or greater, as you have no way to prevent the car from piling straight into something. You are responsible for your personal and anyone else’s life, within the vehicle you’re driving, including other road users, and this means you had better be sure that you have taken all the precautions you can, to prevent any problems caused by the tires of your car.

Contact with the driving surface involves a number of elements, we will now discuss, some are within your control and some are beyond it.

Tire Friction:

Most friction comes from the contact of rubber of the tire with the driving surface. The gravity acting on the mass of the vehicle, is the only thing that creates this contact with the driving surface, thus the greater the weight, the greater the friction between the road surface and your vehicle tires.

Although this is a desirable result, this can be highly undesirable when in the form of inertia, which occurs after the friction has been defeated. As in, if you have locked up the brakes, inertia is now greater with a heavier vehicle and requires more friction to stop it, which you would no longer have.

Tire Air pressure:

The air pressure in tires will change the attributes of the rubber by stretching it, so if a tire is overfilled it may lower the amount of friction available, as there is also much less surface area.

Tire Tread:

Tire tread affects the ability of the vehicle to make contact with the road surface. The grooves of the tread of your car tires, allows extranious matter such as mud or snow somewhere to go other than between the tire rubber and the road surface. This lessens the “hydroplaning” effect that can be caused various elements of the weather, making driving conditions less than wonderful.

Making sure your tires are in good nick, with plenty of tread and correct air pressure, ensures maximum ability of your vehicle to grip the road, providing you with the control over the vehicle necessary to enable you to slow down and steer properly to avoid problems.

Always remember, car tires are your safety link to using the road, so look after your tires.

March 14th, 2010 by cheapcar

The Car Care Basics

I really like this car site as it is refreshingly straightforward, and I believe this is because it was written by a woman.

A much more practical attitude.

I really wish I had been able to find something like “The Car Care Basics” when I was a young man just starting with cars. It always seemed to me that every male was born with this knowledge – except me. I seem to have been somewhere else, when that knowledge was given out.

“The Car Care Basics” would have then and will now, save me time and money when dealing with the basics of my car.

Well done, Sylvia Guillemette.

Chris M. Australia

November 25th, 2009 by cheapcar

• Forced Credit Application

If you expect to pay for a car outright with cash, or with a bank draft or check that is your right and ultimately a sensible approach. Some dealerships will not let you. They are trying to get you into paying monthly terms, which of course means more money for them.

Some statements you may hear include:

“State laws require that you must fill out a credit application before I can sell you this car.”

“Everyone that buys a car from us fills out a credit application first.”

“It’s the company’s policy”.

If you are presented with any of these lies, you now know what’s going on.

When you are paying cash why would you think that you need to fill out a credit application? Not only does it not make sense, no state will force you to apply for credit when paying cash. Would you fill out a credit report if you want to buy a sofa or groceries while paying cash? To avoid this scam, just laugh in their faces and take your business elsewhere.

• Sold “As Is” Used Car Scam

This is when a car dealership will sell you a “completely refurbished” car, omitting to tell you that the car has been in a major accident. Basically, the dealer has been saddled with this wreck, used as a trade-in, and just wants to be rid of it. The vehicle in question will have an “as is” sticker on it, and that no warranty is included with your purchase. This is the dealer’s way of telling you that you are assuming all risks for the car, and apart from the fact that it is not under warranty – you cannot bring it back and complain.

• Dealer Mark up Scam

Apart from being totally unnecessary, this car dealership fee is charged for no reason other than money-gathering. This fee is seen on the orange sticker marked on the manufacturer’s suggested retail price (MSRP), and is a result of expecting money for no other good reason, other than the fact that they want money for nothing.

This sort of fee is generally comprised of -  anything that comes to the dealer’s mind and worded as such to confuse the unwary.

Asking the dealer to remove it, is up to the individual car buyer and probably a waste of your time, certainly a daunting task, when confronted with a seasoned car salesman – any dealership employing this sort of add-on fee tactic, already has a prepared patter designed to baffle any questions.
If the dealer cannot adequately and clearly state just what is entailed in these extra charges, take your business elsewhere.

• Payoff Your Loan Scam

A fairly common sales strategy with some car dealers,  will be them offering to pay off the balance of your current car loan, no matter how much money you still owe on it. There will always be some buyers, upon hearing this, that think the purchasing of a car with a new dealership, somehow now means they now owe no money on their current car.

Er, no.

The reality, is that the dealership does in fact help you get out of your current contract; however, they are not going to tell you – that breaking the lease agreement with your old dealership, will now make you responsible for paying a high increase in  your fees to make up the difference. You also will not be able to refinance for a new car until those fees are paid. Under the pretext of doing you a favour, the dealership will offer to add the cost on to your new contract with them. At a substantially higher rate, of course.

The dealership only agrees to this deal because they want to get more money from your current car. They will also give you far less than your car is worth on the trade-in. This scam works well, for them, because they will increase your monthly fees, and then, sell your trade in for more money than its worth – certainly more than they afforded you.

These kinds of dealerships, will then quietly extend your monthly payments so that it appears to you, that you are paying a smaller than expected monthly repayment, without even realizing that you have in fact committed to an extra year, of repayments.

Avoidance of this scam, requires that you continue with your current lease contract until it ends. If you are really determined to get a new car, then you should try selling your current car privately. Just sell it outright so that the buyer just assumes the lease payments.

• Bouncing Check Scam

This is when a car dealership announces to you that they cannot accept your bank draft, because your particular bank is always bouncing checks, so often in fact that they now refuse checks from your bank. This then gives them an opportunity to get extra money from you, by offering to sell you a car at a higher interest rate, due to the contrariness of your bank.

You can avoid this scam by getting your drafts from Capital One Auto Finance. Capital One Auto Finance is in the business of giving car loans, so these checks don’t bounce.

November 25th, 2009 by cheapcar

Whenbuying a “new” used car, firstly, try and not get caught up in the fact that this is a new “toy” and get over excited by a new acquisition, it’s how the vehicle runs that is important. Take it for a serious test drive before you make any decision. Second-hand cars bought from private owners don’t come with any warranty. You don’t want to buy someone else’s problem, or, for that matter, a lemon. Remember, there are no “lemon laws” associated with second-hand, or used cars.

Do not purchase a vehicle on first inspection. Certainly inspect the vehicle, then go and do some research. There is a lot of help available online when you’re purchasing a used, or Second-hand car.

• Get the vin, or vehicle identification number – With this number you can access a vehicle’s history online through your state.

• Do an online search for the model and year of your car, looking specifically for any complaints or call backs on this particular model.

The first place you should test drive this car is straight to your local mechanic. With a bit of notice, he’ll be glad to set a bit of time aside to go over the car with you. He’ll take a look at your car with a keen and unprejudiced eye. Not forgetting that this is an investment of his time in the prospect of a long-term customer.

Take along whatever service records are available, or you have garnered from the internet, on the vehicle, these will help your mechanic understand the vehicle’s history. Your mechanic will check the hoses and belts and condition of the engine-oil; the radiator fluid for coolant level and to make sure the fluid is going to protect in severe cold conditions; any engine leaks and the transmission fluid.

Also, a check is done on the lights – inside on the dash, and outside to make sure they all work and are directed correctly. The shock absorbers, brakes, tires and their alignment,too.

There will be a vehicle body inspection, in case there is any rust underneath on the frame; paint continuity, or matching; car body alignment, as in do all the doors open and shut properly? This is a dead giveaway if the vehicle has been in a major accident.

Your mechanic himself should take the car out for a test drive. He will be able to pick up subtle things, perhaps a shudder or hesitation, or hear a sound that you may not. His is the best advice you’re going to get in this situation – and, it is his business to know.

If this all sounds like a lot of work, just for a second-hand car, remember, this is an investment you are making, and your health could be at stake.